Every Princess needs some sparkle and shine! How to add metallic designs to fabric.

I receive lots of questions about how I add metallic designs to fabric.  Recently I've begun to feel like a broken record, explaining over and over, so I decided to make a post about my processes.

Though every fairy tale or ghoul sparkles & shines on their own, somethings they might need a bit more glitz! There are many different ways to add a metallic shine to your fabrics, these are just my favorites.  I'll add more if I discover any I like.  Each has benefits and downfalls.  I suggest experimenting to find which one works for you, or try using this as a starting point to discover a new way that works even better!  Its always nice to have options, since every project presents new challenges that might not work with your favorite or current way of doing things.  Be flexible and change with a project's needs!
Lets start with...

Fabric method

Materials:

Heat n Bond ultra (the red package)

Pencil
Projector
Light box
Blue tape

Scissors and/or X-Acto knife
Cutting mat

Paper (large enough for your design)

Metallic fabric

Base fabric (what you want metallic patterns on)

Scrap fabric (100% cotton works well)

Iron

Ironing board

Time & lots of it!

Start by creating your design. I usually like to use either Illustrator or Photoshop to finalize my designs, but this made my brain hurt so I just drew it freehand.  If you use a computer flip the design to make a mirror image before printing.  If you are drawing by hand you might want to trace over the pattern on the backside of the paper. Personally, I have trouble drawing things mirrored, and they can sometimes look odd when flipped.

If you didn't draw to scale, use a projector to enlarge the image.  Trace the enlarged pattern on large pieces of either pattern drafting paper or newsprint.  If you don't have a projector you can take the image to a copy shop to have them scale it up.
Once the pattern is the right size, trace it onto the paper side of Heat n Bond.  Heat n Bond has two sides, one is shiny (this is glue) the other is a paper backing. Do not trace on the glue side.  I usually use a light box for this, though you can use blue tape to put both pieces to a window and use natural light.
Trace your pattern before you adhere the Heat n Bond to fabric.  If its attached to fabric, you won't be able to see through it easily. Repeat till you have enough for your project.
After the image is traced, iron the Heat n Bond onto the metallic fabric, following the manufacturer's instructions for iron settings and time. Use extra caution when ironing synthetic fibers, you don't want the heat to melt them.  Its always a good idea to test a scrap of fabric first.
I prefer to use knit metallic fabric. I find that metallic wovens unravel despite the glue backing.  My favorite metallic fabric to use is a swimwear knit printed with tiny shiny dots. I find that it takes heat and wear a lot better.

When ironing the Heat n Bond to fabric, make sure to place a piece of 100% cotton scrap fabric between the iron and the paper backing (I suggest some inexpensive muslin).  This helps distribute the heat and ensures an even all over bond.  Seriously, it will peel off if you don't do this!

You may also want to protect your ironing board cover with another scrap of fabric. Once the two pieces are bonded and cooled, cut the design out using either scissors or an X-Acto knife (don't forget the cutting board) depending on how intricate the design is.

Next peel off the paper backing, and place the exposed glue side to the base fabric (the fabric you want your shiny design on).  Be careful to line it up correctly, since once it is heated you can't move it without ruining all your work.  Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how hot your iron should be, usually you need to adjust based on what fabrics you are using.  Test a scrap first!
Don't forget to place a piece of scrap fabric between the iron and the shiny fabric. If you are ironing a large area don't slide the iron. Lift it up and place it back down on the next piece you wish to heat.  If you slide the iron your pieces might move or get bent.  Once it cools your design is finished.

Please note that Heat n Bond ultra is not meant to be sewn.  It is possible, but you might break a needle or two doing it.  They do make a lite version that you can be sewn, but it doesn't adhere as well.  This a good thing to think about when dealing with pieces that still need to be sewn together.
If you are using a sheer fabric try Mistyfuse instead of Heat n Bond.  Sometimes Heat n Bond can bleed through sheers or lightweight fabrics which looks unattractive.
Here are some examples of fabrics using this method (you can purchase the Cupid fabric here and add your own arrows):

Next up is....

Foil method

Materials:

Heat n Bond ultra (the red package)

Pencil
Lightbox

Scissors or X-Acto knife
Cutting mat

Paper (large enough for your design)

Metallic heat transfer foil (I used icraft Deco Foil)

Base fabric (what you want metallic patterns on)

Iron

Ironing board

Parchment paper

Sewing pins
Time & lots of it!

Using foil is very similar to the fabric method, just a few minor changes.  Start by creating your design.  Don't mirror it. Trace it to the heat n bond paper just like before.

Cut all the shapes out. My pattern was very complex, so I cut them as I applied to make sure they didn't get lost.
Next, iron the Heat n Bond to the base fabric following the manufacturer's instructions.  If you are using a sheer fabric, make sure to put a piece of parchment paper between the fabric and the ironing board.  To help line up the pattern place the original printed pattern under the parchment paper that  protects the ironing board, and pin everything into place.  This won't work on more opaque fabric though.

Once the glue has cooled peel off the paper covering.  Place sheets of transfer foil over the design. On top of the transfer foil place a sheet of parchment paper. Never iron directly over the foil, it gets wrinkly, less shiny, and can stick to the iron. Heat the foil according to the manufacturer's instructions.

 Let the foil cool a bit, remove the parchment paper, and carefully peel the foil off the fabric. The foil should stick to the glue and create a pretty super shiny design.  Remember anytime you heat the fabric the heat n bond will reactivate, so you need to protect your ironing board!

Here's the finished product:

They also sell bottled glue for heat transfer foils. I found that the Heat n Bond is the smoothest most even application, but you might want to experiment depending on your project. Below is a picture of the tests I did on polyester organza before settling on the Heat n Bond and foil method. Starting at the top left going clockwise: Fabric with Mistyfuse. Foil glue with iron to apply foil. Foil glue with burnishing to apply foil. Heat n Bond with foil (as described above). Fabric paint with stencil.

Next up is my favorite!

Glitter transfer method

Recently I purchased a Silhouette Cameo (best idea ever), and experimented a bit with their glitter transfer paper.  You can also use the paper without the fancy cutting machine, by tracing your design on the clear plastic side with a felt tipped marker then cutting the material with scissors, but the machine is a real time saver, and the design will stay stuck to the larger clear transfer sheet.  They also sell transfer foils, magical!

Materials:

Silhouette Cameo

Silhouette glitter heat transfer paper

Computer drawing program

Base fabric (what you want glittery patterns on)

Scrap fabric (100% cotton works best)

Iron

Ironing board

Start by using your pattern piece as a template for how large you want your design. I took a picture of my pattern and uploaded it into Adobe Illustrator to get the curve right.  I prefer to use Illustrator over the software that come with the Cameo simply because I am more familiar with it, and I find it easier to make complex patterns faster (I was on a bit of a time crunch!)

After the design is ready, import it into the cameo software and prep the file for cutting. I'm not going to get too detailed on this, since there are already a great number of tutorials online. Do a test cut on a small section to check for size. Make sure to flip the image for transfer paper.

Next cut the glitter sheet. Peel the excess material away and the transfer is ready for the fabric.  Leave the pieces you want to apply attached to the clear plastic sheeting.

Test a scrap of the glitter on a scrap of fabric before moving onto the final piece since the temperature of the iron may vary based on fiber content. I applied the glitter transfer much like the Heat n Bond, covering it with a piece of scrap fabric to help distribute heat. The most challenging part of this process is to get the transfer to lay flat without bubbles. If you have a heat press I would recommend using it.

Overall, I found that the glitter adhered to the poly sheer really well. There wasn't really any glue bleed through, though you may want to protect you ironing board with extra scrap fabric just in case. Unlike paint on glitters, this material doesn't flake everywhere, which is extremely helpful for long term sparkle factor.  Even after hours of kids pulling and poking it, the glitter and design are still intact!
Here it is on my finished dress (it seemed to attract a bit more princess sparkle!)

Photo by Lionboogy

I hope this helps add a bit more fairy dust to your outfits!